aida dress

7 Ambitious Sewing Projects (to tackle in the next five years or so).

June 23, 2021

 





Greetings and salutations! 

It has been much too long since I've written anything on this blog. To be fair, things have been kinda stir-crazy over here. April and May were near-complete disasters and June has been spent picking up the pieces. But I'll leave that commiserating for my wrap-up post later this week. 

Today, I wish to be spontaneous and write down some really ambitious sewing projects that I would love to tackle within the next five years or so. Will I get any of them done? Who knows. If anything, I love to dream.

So what's on my list? 


1. Aida Opera Dress

I've already touched on this at the beginning of the year when I made my goals sheet for 2021. However, I have not even looked at it since the winter, so I don't know if it's going to fly this year or not. Maybe I'll actually get the patterns this year so it won't be a total bust. 

But anyway, for those who don't know about this hair-brained scheme, you can check out this post HERE. Though if I do ever actually update this project, it will be on The History Cat, since it's historical. And really, that poor little blog needs something of it's own. What I have done though, is made up a secret Pinterest board for collecting fashion plates and I must say...I'm drawn to this one right here... 


2. Jennie Wade inspired 1860's Dress

Some of you probably remember that Gettysburg has a special place in my heart (I mean, after how many field trips, it's hard not to). But many of you probably don't know about Jennie Wade, who was the only direct civilian causality of the battle. She is such a little-known but fascinating (and tragical) figure in Pennsylvania history. Really, someone needs to make a movie on her. 


Georgia Wade McKellan, Mrs. Wade and Jennie Wade


Anyway, I digress. I've been interested in Civil War history for quite a bit, and the fashions are really nice. So I'd like to try my hand at it. But instead of going for the fancy ballgowns of the plantations, I'd like to go for a simple day dress that I can maybe wear to reenactments and stuff. Because of that, this project does have a better shot of actually being made because patterns and fabric can be sourced a lot easier. 


3. Scottish Highland Costume

This is one that has been on my list since an early teenager. I think I have mentioned before that I have a fair amount of Scottish ancestry. And so, I'd love to make myself a Scottish costume, preferably out of my family tartan. 


Originally, I had wanted to make a kilt, but years later, I discovered the traditional women's Highland dress, which is a long tartan skirt, tartan shawl with a white blouse and black vest. And it's preetttyyy. Though now I have to decide whether I shall go with the historically accurate Ancient Mackinnon or the modern Mackinnon tartans. I personally like the look of the modern better, but we shall see. 


4. Polish Costume

If I have one, I might as well have the other! Over time, I've learned to appreciate my daddy's Polish roots and I love their folk costumes. Such lovely embroidery, ack! And the floral crowns too. My issue is that I have multiple branches of Polish ancestry, so I'm not sure if I want to base my costume off of Krakow or the rural village where my grandfather's grandfather came from. 


5. My own Corset

This is probably the nuttiest one of them all...and I'll probably do this in conjunction with one of the other historical costumes that I have slated. But I wanna try. I mean, I've seen other historical costumers do it. So it can't be that hard...


6. My own Eowyn costume

Is this a surprise? Probably not. You all know my love for Eowyn. I'm not sure if I want to copy a costume from the movies, or maybe make a whole new one inspired by her. She has pretty simplistic costumes. It's going to be the shield that's going to get me, I think. 


7. A Sidesaddle Habit

Horseback riding is one of those hobbies that I don't get to participate in very often. But I love riding habits, especially those of the eighteenth century (ahem, Felicity's is gorgeous, not gonna lie). So definitely want to make one of those (and use it too, if I get a chance!). 

And that is seven! In addition to these, I have some honorable mentions, which include a Regency gown, a Tudor gown with French Hood, and some Edwardian outfits. The only reason I made it seven and not ten is that, well, with the rest there are some *modesty issues* I gotta work through. Stupid low necklines...

So, does anybody think I can pull these off? Which ones would you be interested in seeing? Any you think are absolutely crazy? Tell me in the comments below! 

Old-fashionably yours, 

Catherine

farmlassie

A Cringey Medieval Dress Tutorial (with Sarcastic Commentary)

June 22, 2020





A wonderful day to you all!!

In today's workbasket post, I'm going to bring a dusty mothball filled post that dates back to....a long time ago.

Back when I was playing around with blogging, I wanted to make a lot of tutorial like posts. Especially for things that I wanted to learn how to do but could never find instructions for. No one could really give a tutorial on how to make a medieval dress in a cheap manner, and so I was left to figure it out on my own. I kept a record of how I did it and proceeded to write a post for it. That never saw the light of the internet until now...more for the lack of pictures.

Now, I have realized that there is a lot of things wrong with this post. I warn you now, this post is much more arrogant than you're used to seeing from me (I mean, I know I have a streak of pride a mile long and this post will prove it without a doubt). But I have decided to publish it in it's raw form just for the pleasure of shredding it to pieces.

So without further ado, let's get started!



I'm sure that every girl wants at least one medieval dress in their closet to wear to Ren Faire, right? *bold of you to assume that Catherine* I know I did. *really? wouldn't have guessed* However, one look at some of the prices that ready-made dresses were going for convinced me that there was a cheaper alternative (break out the sewing machine!)
The question was: how to make one?
My pattern search quickly became a source of frustration. I couldn't find any that I like *lies, you were cheap!* , (with the exception of Laura Marsh, but those come from overseas…). I knew there had to be a way to create my own SOMEHOW!
Turns out, Pintrest saved my head from blowing off.
No, I did not find a how to guide (I wish). Instead, I discovered from (looking at my collection of medieval costume pins) that a particular style dress looked an awful lot like a princess dress. I managed to get a hold of pictures of one such dress of front and back, and, with a princess dress pattern I already had, decided to draft my own medieval dress. *otherwise known as knockoff* 

The proved a little daunting, since I had NEVER drafted anything in my entire sewing career, at least not to the extent that I ended up doing.
The material I used was a medium heavy cotton blend. I was pleasantly surprised with how well it draped, but for your sake, I would go for a medium cotton. *rolls eyes really Catherine your naive arrogance is endearing* 



You will need: at least 6 yards of main fabric, 1 yard of accent fabric, ¼ yard heavy cloth or leather, thread, eyelets and cording. Follow the patterns instructions with the following exceptions:
1. Cut the dress a size bigger than 'your' size.

EDIT: Don't do that for the entire dress. Only do that for cutting out the BACK SEAM. Otherwise, the dress won't fit, especially at the shoulders. 

2. Instead of adding a zipper, simply sew the entire back together.
3. For the eyelet tape: measure from the middle of your bust to 1” below your waist. Add an inch, and then cut two lengths of that measurement of the heavy cloth. Roll over the cut edges, and hem them. Add eyelets at each end and then every 1-1 ½” on both sections of tape (think shoelace holes). Baste the finished tape to the back (remember to put the top at where the middle of the bust will be, and the bottom at the waist) *gee thanks Young Catherine I wouldn't have known if you hadn't told me*  with the eyelets facing out. Sew the sides on as normal.
NOTE: I used single-biased tape originally, and it didn't hold the eyelets very well.

EDIT: I actually used grommets originally, (NOT eyelets) and not only were they a pain to put in, the tape didn't hold them. I've since made actual eyelets and they hold a lot better. And, I would actually recommend a medium-heavy fabric for the tape because leather would be hard to sew in. And, for future projects, I mayyyy stick the tape a smidge higher...actually more like a whole inch higher.



4. Before sewing the hem, check the fullness of the skirt. The princess pattern may not have the really wide skirt circumference that is characteristic of a medieval gown. *MAY NOT?? GIRL IT DOESN'T* Add gores for additional fullness. I was able to do that with the extra fabric left over from the dress. *what, no tutorials for the gores??*  Finish dress accordingly, using cording as the 'laces' to tighten up the dress. *slaps head. Did I seriously not leave instructions for this??*




On my dress, I created the sleeve band, bottom of the sleeve and sleeve flaps from scraps. Because of the difficulty that I had with that, I would recommend that you find a dress pattern with a long sleeve, and add the band and sleeve flaps yourself. That whole sleeve pattern was me flying by the seat of my pants....er skirt.  However, if you are adventurous, I can give you some tips on how to make your own version of these sleeves. The sleeve flaps are quite easy. It's just a trapezoid of main on a slightly bigger trapezoid of accent fabric, and hemmed accordingly. If you wish a lower sleeve that look similar to mine, look for a bracer pattern "Look for a bracer pattern"? Come on, I literally just wrapped a scrap of fabric around my arm. and customize it yourself. Take in mind, bracers are not meant to go past the elbow, so having at least ¾ sleeves is essential if you wish to go this route. Use the sleeve band of accent fabric to hide seams.


EDIT: *sigh* where to start??? There is literally hardly any information worth saving out of this step, except for making the sleeve flaps.  And leaving out half the instructions for finishing the dress? Obviously, Young Catherine must have thought she was writing to a group of old lady seamstresses who knew what they were doing...


As for colors, it is up to you. If you wish to be historically accurate, go for natural colors or colors that are achieved with natural dyes. If (like me) you just want a costume, go for colors that suit you. Jewelled belts and circlets are the most common accessories with a medieval costume, followed by French hoods, snoods and circular medieval veils.

EDIT: I had originally intended to make a belt and a veil to go with this dress, but as you can see, I have not done so yet. Probably just as well. Though it does seem to be missing something, doesn't it?  

*shifts eyes*

Are we done?

*breathes sigh of relief*

Man, was that a mess. Thank heavens I didn't start blogging in those early days. I don't know if anyone could actually stand me.

I do hope that there at least was some entertainment value in all of this, if not actual valuable information. All I can say is that when I actually DO draft a pattern, I hope to find people much more knowledgeable than myself.

Old-fashionably yours,

Catherine 

sew: a needle pulling thread

Workbasket Post: The Scrappy Patchwork Quilt (Part 2)

April 15, 2020






Hey y'all!

If you missed part 1, it is HERE!

When I last left you, I was in the middle of creating the "Crossing Blocks" which would be in the corners of the Ohio Stars.

I decided to finish all the blocks first before assembling them in their motifs. If anything, it was to get this picture:


All Laid Out!
March 31, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

Now came the tedious task of "squaring" everything up. This is when all the uneven edges are cut down to increase the tidiness.
Now, this absolutely requires a rotary cutter and a cutting mat. Scissors are not nearly narrow enough to do the precise cutting that is required and trying to straighten things out by eye is about impossible. Trust me, I've tried.

This also required more ironing. Wheeeee. Long theological discussions on YouTube are such a blessing in these times.

I tackled it one Ohio Star after another, since they were supposed to be on the edges so to speak. The stripe for the middle would then be next.

Ohio Stars were stitched first
April 1, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

As I'm constructing these things, I notice that I had to do some more piecing. I mean, it was either that or lose over a half an inch of two other blocks and I couldn't afford that.

As I kept constructing this thing, I kept falling more and more in love with it :).

Stars and Stripe Assembled!
April 2, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

So you may notice that the stripe in this picture looks different from the previous pictures. Again, Catherine made yet another math error. As I was sewing some the squares together, I noticed that I had forgotten to calculate in the seam allowances. With a little extra taking, I was able to squeeze in one more block at the bottom. 
Which caused another agonizing redesign with some of the discarded blocks. Of course, nearly all the blocks were the wrong pattern - I needed an "O" block and most of all the other blocks were "X" blocks. Go figure right? 
Checking through my stash, I found one "X" block with fabric already used in earlier squares, which I could easily convert to an "O" block. After that was done, I changed out one of the "X" blocks for a different colored one to help keep the pattern better. 


Once these colored block were assembled, it was time to determine the sashing that would go in between them. I had two choices of fabric: a cream fabric with tiny light salmon dots, or the blue and white willow fabric that I had used for the quilt blocks earlier. 

Upon examination though, I found that the latter fabric was just too busy. With all that vibrant color, the quilt needed some stark contrast with the plainer cream. So using the back fabric as my guide, I cut the sashing strips to size and set to work. 

Quilt Top Complete!!
April 3, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

Right after I finished the top, I dug out some polyester batting that my mom had stashed in the basement. Normally, I hate using synthetic fibers such as polyester in my sewing. But, natural battings are three times the price of regular and the craft stores are closed anyway. Besides, when is my mother ever going to use batting?
I experimented with one, two and three layers of batting. I finally decided on two to give me some thickness but not be duvet-thick, if that makes sense.  

Now, the hard part....the quilting process. 
First was the design. I went back and forth between doing a cross-hatch or an Orange Leaf pattern. But something about the beauty of the squares told me that I should not quilt over them. Second was the backing fabric itself: 


Remember how I said it was weird?
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

In the end, I decided to just outline the sashing, so that it sort of resembled a sort of Jacob's Ladder on the back. I eliminated hand quilting almost immediately because of the timing concerns. So that left me with my machine, which I was okay with.

I then pinned the quilt sandwich together with safety pins. This was a trick that I was taught by my sewing instructor when you didn't have the really long pins that you were supposed to use for these things. 


She be pinned and ready to go!
April 7, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn
Quilting this thing turned out to be a CHALLENGE. First, the feed dogs were having a devil of a time working that pilled fleece through. If I hadn't had to follow the quilt top, I would have flipped it over to work on it. 
Second....somehow or other, the back fabric kept puckering. So much so that it would require me to take out some whole seams, which was frustrating). So, after doing almost half of the seams, I had to repin it in order for the back to lay flat once again. Once that was accomplished, things got easier. 
Third - two layers of batting was actually really thick! Which didn't help the feed dogs any. Trying to pull that quilt through was a workout for sure... 


All Quilted!
April 8, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn
The last step (besides trimming off the excess overlay) was to get some binding and finish off those raw edges. Upon consultation with Lia, I decided to go with a really light blue binding. But, of course, I had no binding in stock, and would have to buy some. 

Which was much more of a difficulty than normal because as I mentioned...the craft stores are still closed. And Amazon has a high volume of traffic due to this whole mess, so I didn't bother looking into it.  

But Walmart saved the day! Our Walmart still has a craft section, in spite of the fact that many Walmarts were getting rid of theirs. And in that half empty shelve of binding, there was indeed a full spot of light blue binding :) 

Can't get much more providential than that, no? 

Sewing the binding on
April 11, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

By this time, it is Holy Week - Good Friday to be exact. Pinning and sewing the binding should have probably taken a day at most, but due to problems, I didn't finish the binding until late afternoon on Holy Saturday. Just in time before Lent ended! 


All finished!
April 11, 2020
Copyright: Catherine Hawthorn

I could do nothing but stare at the beauty of it for several minutes. Even though the quilt has a lot of "character" as my dear friend Grace Avender says (i.e. mistakes), I'm really really happy at how it turned out!! Not only does it get a long-term project done, it makes use of fabric that was just lying around in my cabinet. 

Now that I've babbled on enough, I'd love to hear from you! What sort of projects have you been up to during this quarantine? 

Old-fashionably yours, 

Catherine

sew: a needle pulling thread

Workbasket Post: The Scrappy Patchwork Quilt (Part 1)

April 03, 2020





Hey y'all!!

Today, I'm going to share with you the story of my Lenten sewing project: a scrappy quilt!

So this project started out as one of those "experiments" that I'm famous for. What I'll do is I'll find out some craft and then attempt to create it. Usually I won't get much further than the first steps.

This particular quilt got it's start a couple of years ago, when I found a book that taught quilting in our craft stash. I decided to raid my mom's scrap bin for some suitable calicos. I simply just grabbed, big ones and little ones. Yellows, reds, purples, blues, greens, and pinks, mostly. I did stick mostly with flowers, but there was one stripey print in there.

I cut out several nine-patch blocks, and even put a couple together. I had a design, made up mostly of nine-patch blocks broken up by triangles. But then I, mysteriously, stopped working on it.

Fast forward to late 2019, when I found the bag of scraps once more when renovating my room. Rather than hiding it again, it got put in a rather prominent place, where I could remember to pick it up again - in my big sewing cabinet.

And it worked, because then I decided to pick it up as a Lenten project this year!

The first was the re-design process. I found a piece of fabric among my own stash, a purple fleece that had a strange texture to it. It was the perfect size for a throw, and I'm sure that it was cut to that purpose (though not by me).

In the blocks that I had assembled earlier, I had a favorite combination - an apple pattern paired with a blue and white flower calico. And so, I decided to feature these. Research into quilt patterns soon brought forth a favorite - the Ohio Star.

With those in mind, I took some measurements and re-created my PatternJam account (which is a quilt design website) to create this design:



Initial Design - with all the horrid colors - Feb 2020
Looks like a mess, doesn't it? 

I admit, the fabric section of the design website was not working at that point. But also, I had no idea my scraps would stretch and what the final colors would look like. 

In the first week of Lent, I started work on more of the nine-patch blocks. Which, in hindsight, may or may not have been a wise decision. 

Following the original design, I came up with this: 


Progress - Feb 29, 2020

Now, take a look at how close those bottom those two nine-patches for the Ohio Stars are. I should have taken better note of that.

Anyway, it remained like this for well over two weeks. At that point, I went on vacation and came back to quarantine, so I had a few things to settle before I picked it up again.

By that point, I was starting to realize my mistake in going ahead with the nine patches. It was then also that I started looking hard on design, as I was prepping to make the "Hourglass" blocks that would make up the Ohio Star design.

I took as inspiration the colors of the apple print and make plans for the Hourglasses to be made up of red and yellow fabric. Alas, I was short on the red and so only had enough to make three sets of red and yellow. I had to find another combination and fast.

I decided to go with green as one of the colors, since there was a nice mint green in the original print but what to match it with? Blue didn't seem to be a good option, and to be frank, there wasn't that much blue to offer.

So I decided to go with purple. From here on out, a lot of decisions had to be made on what kind of fabric I had available to me. It turned out, like in the red, that I was short on purple too - more so, actually. And so after much mental agonizing, I had to piece-meal some triangles together to scrape enough out to make the Hourglasses.


March 27

After the Hourglasses were made and set out, I realized with horror that I had miscalculated the number of rows that I would have needed. All of a sudden, about a dozen of those nine-patches became unnecessary. More on that later.

The last thing then that had to be figured out was what to put in the corners of the Ohio Star. I knew that I didn't have enough fabric to have solid blocks like in the original design. And so, it was back to the drawing board.

I found a "crossing" pattern paired with Ohio Stars that I found that I liked, and it would be simple enough to make a nine-patch design of that.

Taking inspiration from the original blocks again, I decided to go with opposite colors to bring out the hidden colors better. For example, on the Stars with the green and purple Hourglasses, I created red and yellow Crossing blocks. Which, ironically, was the other set of blocks that needed a piecemeal occasionally.

The trickier turned out to be the ones for the red and yellow Ohio Stars. Ideally, I would have had blue or purple for all three, but supplies ran short. I tried looking for more scraps but was rather unsuccessful (except in finding more yellow....). 

So I went then with a blue for one, a pink and blue for another, and to really mix things up, a green and purple one for the third.

It was at this time too that I finalized the middle stripe. This had caused me a lot of anxiety as I original had an X0X0X0X0X pattern going, and the colors were not blending well. I spent a couple of hours one night just playing with designs.

Finally, on the morning of the 29th, I made my final decision. A couple of the discarded blocks were taken apart, and their pieces used for the "Crossing" blocks - which is why I wanted the design to be finished anyway. Three of the discarded blocks were saved with some of the pieces that I didn't use and will be used for another quilt....eventually.


March 30


I decided then that I would update my design on my Pattern Jam to reflect the changes that had taken place. I must say, even with the rather unorthodox colorations, it doesn't look half bad....



Final Design - March 31



But good heavens, I have written enough for one night. I shall save the rest of my tale for another time! 

Old-fashionably yours, 

Catherine 


farmlassie

Workbasket Post: The Abandoned Flannel Jumper

February 03, 2020





Hey y'all!

I had NOT intended to make a post about this particular jumper and as such, I didn't take any pictures of the sewing process. After all, it was supposed to be one of those quickie projects that was going to be a blip mentioned in passing.

Then THINGS started happening, and it was too good NOT to share.

So, here we go.

I started this jumper a few years ago - I want to say I was still in college at the time. At the time, I really liked jumpers and my last one had been recently relegated to the "daughter clothes bin". I also wanted lighter fabrics since most of my clothes are, in fact, dark. And winter skirts were needed.

Hence the buying of two pink flannels - one with a diamond pattern and one with pink and yellow skyrockets on them. I made one jumper with the pink diamonds (still have it, still wear it) and started the second one. Everything was cut, the bodice and skirt were constructed and sewn together. It even had a hem. All it needed was a zipper, the facings and the straps and it would be done.

But for some reason, the project was...abandoned.

*cue the sad music*

I remember having to buy another zipper for it, I think because the first one was so short. But I still didn't pick it up again.

Until January 2020, when I took it out of my sewing cabinet one fine Wednesday that I was off from work.

The problems began immediately when I realized that I was missing half of the instructions for the "View B" I was attempting. I then remembered that I had been following the instructions for View A because of this, but the instructions had pretty much run out at that point.

No trouble, I said to myself. I know how to do the rest of the steps, it shouldn't be that hard. I have, after all, been sewing for over a decade, I should know what I'm doing.

Lies. All lies.

I made a trial fit before I put in the zipper and found that something was really wrong. It was miles too big in the waist.

It was then that I realized that while I was sure I had cut out the correct pattern pieces, I had forgotten to put the darts into the bodice....which would have shortened the waist by over 4 inches.
So, the bodice had to be ripped off the skirt and the darts put in.

That's when I discovered that the bodice wasn't cut right. It was cut straight when it was supposed to be pointed on the darts.
(oh trust me, it only gets better from here)
I had to change the design of the darts slightly in order so that they didn't curve on me. Wish now I had gotten a picture, but it wouldn't have looked flattering at all.

So then, the bodice was darted and the skirt re-gathered and put back on. I then binded the seam with some flannel scraps so that I wouldn't have any fraying issues.

So then, it was time for the zipper, which was an invisible one. I personally prefer them to the regular zippers because they look much nicer.

That's when I discovered, to my chagrin, that my Phaff machine didn't HAVE an invisible zipper foot. Stupid machine was from the 80s and I suppose they didn't have invisible zippers then.

So I had to go use my mother's sewing machine. Except that it was almost inaccessible because the table it was on had Blue Couch up against it. (I'll tell you more about that Blue Couch at another time).

I said "almost" inaccessible. You could use it if you knelt on the couch...you just couldn't reach the foot petal.

So, what does an enterprising girl do?

Fish out the petal, plug in the machine and squeeze the foot petal with her right hand and guide the fabric with the left. Rather efficient system.

Of course my mother doesn't notice my rather unorthodox method until I'm well over halfway putting the zipper in. She asked me why I just didn't move the couch.

Now you tell me, why would I take the risk of moving the couch the wrong way and knock it off it's wooden blocks just to get to the machine for five minutes and then have to move it back? Too much work, if you ask me.

Anyway, after a moment of panic when I thought I had put the zipper in backwards (the opening wasn't big enough for the zipper to flip out, it was fine), it was time for another fitting.

I'll now refer you to the following Hangouts conversation I had with Lia....


My mother did indeed save the day by pinning two darts into the back to take up the excess space. She had asked to see the pattern envelope before doing so to see the design. Not thinking much else, I put it back on the bed. 

It was when I was basting the dart tucks in to sew them that I looked at the pattern envelope again. And made a horrible discovery. 



.....why Catherine? Why??? 

I guarantee you, in my youthful arrogance, that I cut it the smallest size I could and planned to "fix it" later on. This was before I knew about pattern scaling - thank you historical costuming YouTubers. 

So with the dart tucks put in, it was time for another fit. 


 Another couple of hours, and here is the finished product:



I really like how long it is - it makes me feel really feminine. I'll definitely be wearing it around the house this winter :)

Now it's your turn to chat! What sort of abandoned projects do you have lying around? Do you sew, and if so what is the latest project you've done? Tell me in the comments below!

Old-fashionably yours,

Catherine

farmlassie

Christmas in July: The Muff Project

July 26, 2019





I promised that I would do this post back last month or so, but seeing as this summer turned into a hamster ball full of craziness....I'm now just getting around to it.

Now I have idea of what you were thinking when I announced that I had made a classic winter accessory in the middle of summer...that I was really spontaneous. Or crazy.

It all started as I cleaning out my fabric stash from various places in my room as part of Operation Vintage Makeover. A very necessary step in the cleaning process, I assure you, seeing as how there was a very nice wooden sewing cabinet ready to receive it.

As I was going through some of the boxes, I found this piece of faux white fur.


No, it is not folded sloppily, that is a piece cut out of it.
Which made things so much more complicated. 

At first, I was just going to hide it with the rest of the fabric, but further finagling proved that it wasn't going to go into the sewing cabinet willingly.  

Hence, a project was needed for it. 

But what to do with it? It's small, too small for a hat, and it seemed a crime to cut it for trim. 

It was about this time that I checked an old notebook where I had a tally of projects that I wanted to make. And one was a Victorian muff. 

I really liked the aesthetics of it (what says winter better than white?), and the size really seemed perfect. So now, to find out how to make the muff. 

Lucky for me, YouTube saved the day. 




Looked simple enough...right? 

I first sewed the side edge, wrong sides together, as close as I could without incorporating that cut edge. I didn't want to take it off, because I could that use that edge to cover the seam (and therefore finish it).  

And yes, I'm assembling this by my cramped computer desk. Because my room is an absolute shambles....

The next step proved to be the most troublesome. I now had to get the top edge into the bottom edge to create a tube. It was during this tussle that I realized that the piece was just a little too long to wrap around my hands. 

Hence there was at least a half hour or so of me stuffing at least a third of the fur into itself. *wheeeee*


the curled bottom edge really helped to tuck everything in

Now it was time to hand sew the bulky thing together. Because I didn't have long enough pins, there were quite few times when I would have to stop what I was doing and re-stuff the fur back in where I wanted it.  

The bottom seam was done up first....

It was a seeming miracle that the fur lines actually lined up....

And then each side was folded in and stitched down. I did my best to follow the fur lines so that the stitching wasn't as visible. 

Now to get these folds in where they belong! 

While I was stitching this in place, I was listening to documentaries and Sensus Fidelium sermons. I love to listen to something while I work with my hands, it gives my active brain something to munch on. 

Within an afternoon or so, the muff was....done!! 


Once I was assured that nothing was going to pop out of it's place, I went for a quick photoshoot with my winter coat. 

The muff is a little uneven here - not sure if it's how my hands were sitting or what

Side View - which looks more attractive, in my not-so-humble opinion

All in all, it worked out so much better than I expected and I now have a fancy accessory that I can keep my hands warm in this winter!!

Come to the fire and chat with me! What is your favorite winter accessory? Do you listen to things as you go about your day? What has been your favorite YouTube tutorial or channel? 

Old-fashionably yours,

Catherine

embroidery project

From My Workbasket: Crewel Project

November 26, 2018




Hey y'all! 

It doesn't seem possible that we are in the last few months of 2018. It doesn't seem that long ago when I was creating my year's resolutions....

Speaking of which, one of those goals was to finish a certain "crewel" project - one that I had started years and years ago. Well, I managed to finish it late this summer (yes, even with my busy work schedule!) and as promised, I have pictures!

What is "crewel" you ask? 

(Good question, I didn't know what it was either until I got this project one Christmas.....) 

Crewel is basically another form of embroidery. My guess is that what distinguishes it from regular embroidery is the fact that there are two different kinds of thread...but honestly, I have no idea if this is even accurate or not. I certainly can't tell anything else that's different.....

 This particular project featured wool and cotton thread, and it consisted of mostly Satin stitching, Lazy Daisy stitches, and French knots. 

And now, allow me to draw the curtain away.....



to reveal it in all it's glory! 

At first, I wasn't wild about how the colors didn't really blend with each other...but then again, it's really hard to blend colors in an embroidery situation, I suppose. 



The flowers and accent stitching were made with the cotton thread, while the leaves and bow were made with wool. I had to use two different needles, which always makes things interesting. 



The most annoying part were all the French knots that made up the baby's breath. There were sooooo many!! And I dislike making French knots to begin with.....

That golden thread around the bow takes a close second though.....


The reason why the corners are torn is because the fabric didn't totally fit the embroidery scroll frame that I had. Cutting the fabric reduced the bulk on the initial roll so it could roll correctly. It looks so much better than if I had used a regular embroidery hoop. 

Currently, this little project is sitting unframed in one of my drawers. I dearly hope to frame it soon and hang it as part of my new room decor for Operation Vintage Makeover! 


Chat with me! Have you ever done any embroidery or crewel? What has been your most recent project and how close are you to finishing? 

Old-fashionably yours,

Catherine <3

altering clothes

Shirt Refashion: Bell Sleeve Cuffs and Lace Trim

April 26, 2018







Hey y'all!!

Forgive me for my long absence! If anyone has that pause button on LIFE ready, will someone let me know??? I could sure use it!

Anyways....

So, back in November (or was it February? I don't remember...), I picked up some blouses from a thrift store while I was on vacation down South.

One of which was this little beauty....


The original blouse. I apologize for the horrid wrinkliness. 

It is a nice simple fitted blouse, in a really pretty shade of lavender purple. I LOVE the color lavender and always wanted a nice lavender blouse to go with some pretty spring colored skirts I have. 


There was some nice top-stitching on the front placard and on the collar

The only trouble with this blouse...was that the sleeves were just a few inches too short (not even quarter length!) 

The original sleeve. Wow, was it short! 

So, you would think it would be a simple thing - just unpick the original hem, maybe add some pretty lace to it, no sweat, right? 

Umm, not exactly. 

There was also another complication: 

That, my dears, is a finished notch. *sigh* 

With nothing to lose, I unpicked the sleeve hem to see the situation. 

Well, it's not as bad as I thought - just a keyhole. 
In terms of length, the sleeve was now just at the quarter mark. That keyhole opening, however, required something.... 

 After much searching online (apparently refashions to make sleeves longer are rare....) I decided to do a small bell sleeve/cuff. It stopped just at the elbow (which is better in terms of modesty standards) and I could sew it under the keyhole to fill it. 

So I rummaged downstairs to find some fabric, and came up with some eyelet lace scraps and some light backing fabric. 

Cutting the backing fabric
The reason for the backing fabric? 

According to Catholic modesty standards, lace shouldn't be used as fabric for clothing by itself - it's just too sheer. 

I didn't use exact measurements - I basically eyeballed the entire thing. Probably not the best thing I could have done, but hey - it worked this time! 

Sewing a cuff hem
  
The other thing that I did was sew together strips of lace to make a lace tape for the hem. Not only did this give me about 2 more inches in length to the blouse, it made it slightly more...ah...deliberate looking (instead of it looking like someone slapped sleeves on the thing.) 

Design is super important when refashioning a garment - the last thing you want is to for it to look, well, bad. Or amateurish. 

I finished the edges on the lace tape for a cleaner look. 

After all the pieces were prepped, there only remained setting in the sleeves and sewing the tape to the bottom! 

To mimic some of the detailing on the placard and collar, the sleeves and keyhole seams were hand topstitched with complimentary white thread.

Setting in the sleeve with the keyhole filled.  

One sleeve did have to have a separate lace section for the key hole for some odd reason, but at least the sleeves were even. The gathering wasn't even on that same sleeve either, which drove me batty, but there wasn't much I could do. 

The pleated tape - which was also handsewn on. 

After several hours of handsewing - the finished product! 




I managed to finish it just before a really special Mass that I was singing at - had just enough time to iron it and pair it with gold heels and a pretty spring floral skirt before sailing out the door.
Soooo....what do you girls think? Any critiques?  

Old-fashionably yours, 

Catherine

P.S. I forgot to tell you about the candle! 

Because all these pictures are mine, (and I don't want them stolen), I decided to forgo the copyright notice caption and go with a trademark picture instead. It's like sticking on a great big name tag sticker or something. I chose the black candle because of my blog name :). I still gotta work on my sizing apparently....LOL.  

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